By Yemisi Suleiman
In the dynamic world of fashion, few names resonate with the same level of distinction and innovation as Mary Martin London. With a career marked by groundbreaking designs and a unique fusion of African and British influences, Mary has captivated audiences worldwide. Over the past decade, she has been a prominent figure at Africa Fashion Week London AFWL, the largest showcase of African talents in Europe, showcasing her distinctive style and contributing to the global recognition of African talent.
With numerous awards, including the Leadership Achievement Award from the Asian-African Chamber of Commerce and Industry, the BEFFTA Award in 2014, and the Excellent Creative Personality Award from Ebony Ambassador, Mary’s contributions to fashion have been widely recognized and celebrated. In 2023, Fulton County Board of Commissioners, Georgia, even proclaimed December 9th as Mary Martin Appreciation Day, acknowledging her remarkable achievements and symbolizing unity, leadership, and excellence.
As Mary Martin London prepares to take the stage once again at Africa Fashion Week London, come October 12, 2024 at the Kensington and Chelsea Conference centre London, Mary reflects on her journey, the evolution of her brand, and the upcoming celebration of her 10th anniversary at AFWL, as well as her vision for Africa’s burgeoning fashion industry.
Congratulations on your 10th year showcasing at Africa Fashion Week London! How does it feel to reach this milestone?
Reaching a milestone in fashion feels incredibly rewarding, like a validation my hard work, creativity, and perseverance. It’s a mix of pride and gratitude, knowing that my efforts have paid off and that my vision resonates with others. Feeling blessed in this moment is natural, as it reflects both my achievements and the support you’ve received along the way. With this success, there’s also the excitement and hope for the future, a sense that this is just the beginning and that you can continue to push boundaries and create even more meaningful work.
What inspired you to showcase your designs at Africa Fashion Week London, and what keeps you coming back?
What drives me to participate in African Fashion Week and keep returning is the passion and belief in the power of Black fashion and culture. The adrenaline comes from knowing that African fashion has the potential to shine globally, with its rich heritage, bold designs, and innovative creativity. Africa is the root of it all—the beginning and the end of fashion’s story. Being part of that journey is not just about showcasing style, but about reclaiming and rewriting the narrative of African fashion on a global scale. It’s the realization that the world is watching, and Africa’s fashion legacy is unfolding, shaping trends worldwide.
Your brand is known for its unique blend of African and British influences. Can you tell us more about your design aesthetic and how it’s evolved over the years?
My brand’s design aesthetic is deeply rooted in the fusion of African and British influences, creating a unique blend that honors my heritage while embracing contemporary fashion. From the start, I’ve been inspired by traditional textiles, and craftsmanship, blending them with the structured tailoring, minimalism, and classic elegance often associated with British fashion.Over the years, this aesthetic has evolved by becoming more refined and experimental. Early on, my focus was primarily on showcasing bold prints and vibrant colours inspired by Africa, but as my brand grew, I began to explore more subtle ways of merging the two cultures. This meant incorporating modern silhouettes, playing with texture, and finding harmony between tradition and modernity. I now experiment with a more diverse color palette, fabrics, and techniques, allowing for a broader expression of both African vibrancy and British sophistication.This journey has been about balancing heritage with innovation, ensuring that each collection tells a story that is both personal and globally relevant, while remaining authentic to who I am. The result is a brand that speaks to diverse audiences, with pieces that are bold yet timeless, rooted in African tradition but with a modern British edge.
What can we expect from your upcoming collection? Are there any new themes, fabrics, or techniques you’re experimenting with?
My upcoming collection is going to be an explosive celebration of my creative journey! By showcasing the highlights from your past ten years, I’m giving the audience a sense of how your vision has evolved, and that sets the stage for something really unique with this collection. With the “brainstorm” theme, it’s exciting to imagine how I will mix in different materials and techniques. It suggests a wild, spontaneous, and innovative energy, where anything could inspire a new design direction—my fabrics I experiment with to bold, conceptual elements. The idea of bringing that overload of creativity live on stage is truly engaging, as it makes the collection not just about the garments, but the entire experience.
Tell us a bit about yourself and how you got into the industry?
Getting into this industry was a combination of passion and persistence.
I’ve always been creative, and pushing boundaries, which naturally led me into the world of fashion. My journey began with an exploration of artistic expression, and fashion became my medium to communicate bold ideas. Over time, I developed a unique vision, one that fused art, performance, and design into something beyond just clothing—it’s about creating experiences.
How do you stay true to your African heritage while also appealing to a global audience?
Staying true to my African heritage while appealing to a global audience is a balance of honoring my roots and translating that identity into something universally relatable. My African heritage is deeply embedded in my designs, from the vibrant colours, textures, and patterns that reflect the richness of African culture to the storytelling behind each collection.
By blending African elements with contemporary and avant-garde techniques, I create pieces that resonate with people from different cultures.
What does showcasing at AFWL mean to you, and how has it impacted your career?
Showcasing at Africa Fashion Week London (AFWL) has been incredibly meaningful to me, both personally and professionally. AFWL is one of the largest platforms for African and African-inspired fashion in Europe, and being part of it allowed me to proudly represent my African heritage on a global stage. For me, AFWL is not just a runway show—it’s a celebration of African creativity, innovation, and identity. It gave me the opportunity to share my vision, blending African elements with avant-garde design, with an international audience eager to see something fresh and bold.In terms of impact on my career, AFWL has been pivotal. It gave my brand the exposure needed to connect with a broader, global audience. The visibility I gained from the show led to collaborations, opportunities and further runway appearances. It has positioned me not just as a designer, but a voice in the movement bringing African fashion to the forefront of the Global Industry.
This platform has allowed me to push creative boundaries.
You’ve had an incredible journey, from showcasing at AFWL to dressing celebrities and dignitaries. What’s been your most memorable moment or achievement?
It’s been an incredible journey indeed, and there have been so many memorable moments along the way.
One of the highlights would have to be showcasing at Africa Fashion Week London (AFWL).
This platform gave me the opportunity to truly represent my African heritage on an international stage and connect with a global audience. It felt like a pivotal moment where my vision was being celebrated. Another unforgettable achievement was dressing dignitaries and celebrities. Seeing my designs on influential figures (celebrities. dignitaries), who embody confidence and strength was a powerful validation of my work. Every time I see someone wearing my creations, whether on the red carpet or at prestigious events, it reminds me of the impact fashion can have.
However, I think the most personal and profound moment was realizing that my work was inspiring others.
In addition, it has shown how far I have come in the past decade, that I was honoured with a day named after myself in Atlanta Georgia, on December 9th, 2023, is an incredible achievement.
This recognition solidifies my place as a Golbal fashion figure, with roots in Africa and now reaching the likes of the U.S.A.
I imagine there could be even more exciting collaborations and expansions in the future.
How do you balance creativity with commercial viability in your designs?
Balancing creativity with commercial viability is one of the biggest challenges for any designer. For me, it’s about staying true to my artistic vision while ensuring that my designs resonate with the people who will wear them.
But I also recognize the importance of creating pieces that people can actually incorporate into their lives.To achieve this balance, I often explore how experimental elements—like unconventional fabrics or striking silhouettes—can be adapted into more wearable designs without losing their essence. It’s about finding a middle ground where the artistry remains intact but the garments are also practical, versatile, and accessible.I also pay attention to the feedback I get from clients and audiences.
What advice would you give to emerging designers looking to break into the industry?
Advice for Emerging Designers: For emerging designers, my first piece of advice would be to stay true to your unique vision. The fashion industry can be incredibly competitive, and there will be a lot of influences pushing you in different directions. But what will set you apart is your authentic voice and creative identity. Don’t be afraid to experiment and take risks.
Secondly, persistence is key. Breaking into the fashion industry takes time, and there will be setbacks, but it’s important to keep pushing forward, surrounding yourself with people who believe in your work, and network within the industry.
Last but not least, learn the business side of fashion. Creativity is essential, but understanding how to run a business, market yourself, and stay financially sustainable is just as crucial. Keep learning, evolving, and never stop honouring your craft.
How do you see the evolution of the African Fashion industry and your role in it?
The Evolution of African Fashion and My Role:
The African fashion industry is evolving rapidly, gaining more recognition on the global stage. Designers from across the continent are now leading conversations about diversity, sustainability, and innovation. African fashion is no longer just about traditional prints and patterns; it’s about a new narrative that merges heritage with global fashion trends. The world is looking to Africa for fresh perspectives, and we’re showing that our creativity knows no bounds.
We’re seeing more African Designers gaining international recognition, participating in Global Fashion Weeks, and collaborating with major brands.
I see myself as part of this movement, representing African creativity in a way that blends culture with modernity. My role is to break free of the challenges of stereotypes, push the boundaries of what African fashion can be, and show that we can compete at the highest levels of fashion while still celebrating our roots. I want to continue to use my platform to inspire and uplift other African designers, contributing to the global recognition of African fashion as a force to be reckoned with.
What’s next for Mary Martin London? Any exciting collaborations, projects, or expansions on the horizon?
Mary Martin London has some truly exciting milestones ahead! Celebrating my 10-year anniversary in Ghana is a monumental moment—it’s not just a reflection of my journey, but also a testament to my deep connection to African heritage and fashion. Hosting this celebration in Ghana will certainly highlight my cultural roots and showcase.
Expanding my presence in the U.S.A, following the recognition in Atlanta could open up incredible opportunities, while continuing to push the boundaries of fashion with avant-garde, thought-provoking collections.
I would also consider more global pop-ups or exhibitions, perhaps expanding into new continents or launching a ready-to-wear line? The possibilities seem endless!