By Josephine Agbonkhese
Serums are the superheroes of your skincare routine—lightweight, highly concentrated formulas packed with active ingredients that penetrate deeply to target specific concerns like hydration, brightness, aging, or breakouts. Unlike creams, they deliver potent results with just a few drops. Understanding which serums do what—and when to apply them—helps you build a routine that maximises benefits while minimising irritation.
Here’s a profile of some of the most popular and effective skincare serums, their key benefits, and the best time of day to use them.
- Hyaluronic Acid Serum: Hydration Hero
Hyaluronic acid is a powerful humectant that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. It draws moisture into the skin, plumps fine lines, improves elasticity, and creates a dewy, supple appearance. It’s excellent for all skin types, including dry, dehydrated, or mature skin, and helps strengthen the skin barrier.
Best time to apply: Morning and/or night. Apply to damp skin after cleansing for maximum absorption. Many people use it twice daily for all-day (and overnight) hydration. Follow immediately with a moisturiser to seal in the hydration.
- Vitamin C Serum: Brightening, Protection Powerhouse
As a potent antioxidant, Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid or derivatives) brightens dull skin, fades dark spots and hyperpigmentation, boosts collagen production, and protects against free radical damage from UV exposure and pollution. It helps even skin tone and gives a radiant glow.
Best time to apply: Primarily in the morning, after cleansing and before moisturiser/sunscreen. This timing leverages its protective antioxidant benefits during the day. It can also be used at night for repair, but morning use is most recommended.
- Retinol/Retinoid Serum: Anti-Aging Game Changer
Retinol, a form of Vitamin A, accelerates cell turnover, boosts collagen production, unclogs pores, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, fades dark spots, and improves overall texture. It’s one of the most researched anti-aging ingredients.
Best time to apply: Night only. Retinol can make skin more sun-sensitive, and light degrades its effectiveness. Start slowly (2–3 times a week) to avoid irritation, dryness, or peeling.
Always wear broad-spectrum SPF 40+ daily when using retinol.
- Niacinamide Serum: Multitasker for Balance
Also known as Vitamin B3, niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, regulates oil production, minimises pores, reduces inflammation, brightens skin, and improves texture. It’s gentle yet effective for acne-prone, oily, sensitive, or uneven skin tones.
Best time to apply: Morning and/or night—highly flexible. Many use it twice daily for ongoing benefits like oil control in the morning and skin repair at night.
- Alpha Arbutin Serum: Gentle Brightening Specialist
Alpha arbutin is a highly effective, naturally-derived brightening agent that inhibits the enzyme responsible for melanin production. It helps fade hyperpigmentation, dark spots, acne scars, melasma, and sun damage while promoting a more even skin tone. It’s gentler than many other brighteners, making it suitable for sensitive skin and a good alternative or complement to Vitamin C.
Best time to apply: Morning and/or night (twice daily is safe and effective). It is not photosensitising, so it works well in both AM and PM routines. Many users apply it in the morning for daytime brightening and evening for continued pigment control. It layers nicely with Vitamin C, niacinamide, or hyaluronic acid.
- Peptide Serum: Firmness, Repair Booster
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that signal skin to produce more collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. They help firm skin, reduce wrinkles, improve elasticity, and support repair—great for anti-aging without irritation.
Best time to apply: Morning and/or night. They’re gentle enough for twice-daily use and pair beautifully with other actives.