BEYOND THE FABRIC: A REVIEW ON FASHION, CLIMATE, AND THE FIGHT FOR SUSTAINABILITY
By Rita Okoye
“I am on a school strike to save the climate.”
These were the words of renowned climate activist Greta Thunberg in 2019 when she made a public stand about the environmental degradation caused by fossil fuels and other pollutants.
It was jarring because a teenager took to the streets to publicise climate change and environmental practices that affect our planet.
This was not the first time the topic of climate change was known to the public.
The movement towards practices that affect the environment became prominent in the late 19th century, when the protection of the countryside in Europe and the wilderness in the United States, along with the health consequences of pollution during the Industrial Revolution, became apparent.
While some of the industries that heavily impacted climate change were initially those related to agriculture, mining, manufacturing, and conventional energy, in recent years, the fashion industry has also become a major contributor to environmental degradation, with the rise of fast fashion.
The phrase “fast fashion” might seem poetic but it is far from that. The concept started gaining publicity for the first time in the 1990s when the popular fashion brand; Zara was launched in New York.
It was coined by the New York Times to describe the label’s extreme production schedule, with a mission to take only 15 days for a garment to go from the design stage to being sold in stores.
This was miles apart from what used to be the norm in the fashion industry. The consequence was an increase in the rapid design, production, distribution, and marketing of clothing, which meant that retailers could pull large quantities of greater product variety.
This move left an effect on the environment. According to an analysis by Business Insider, fashion production is responsible for 10% of total global carbon emissions, while 85% of all textiles end up in dumps each year.
The end result?
An exchange of consumerism at the cost of environmental degradation. As more and more high-end brands have embraced this concept of ‘fast fashion,’ it has become more prominent in conversations surrounding fashion, sustainability, and environmental consciousness.
However, some brands have started taking a bold stance on the effects of fast fashion in the industry, and upcoming designers are also following suit.
Although fashion is a commercial venture, it should also consider the impact on those who partake in the products. It’s commendable to see other fashion designers in the industry choosing to close the door to fast fashion and instead adopt more sustainable approaches in their production, celebrating their skills and craftsmanship in the form of thoughtful designs and collections.
Some African brands are also rising to the occasion to put a halt to the craze of fast fashion. Brands like Ugee, led by Creative Director Isama Vincent Ugochukwu, pay tribute to the beauty of the African continent while promoting sustainability and ethical practices in the fashion industry. Inspired by the vibrant and diverse cultures of Africa—is dedicated to creating iconic pieces from high-quality patterned fabrics.
Since its inception in 2016, Ugee has evolved with each season, crafting statement pieces that are both timeless and quintessential. His brand upholds the sustainable side of the spectrum, honouring the richness of African culture and celebrating the elegance of the Black woman.
With each piece showcasing diversity in shape, size, and style, the mission of the fashion label has been that fashion should not only reflect individual styles but also tell a story—one that connects wearers to their heritage and helps them express their unique identities.
Each year, their collections are thoughtfully designed not just to capture the essence of an empowered woman but to celebrate it, representing the beauty and grace inherent in every shape and form. Sustainability is woven into every outfit; each fit and style reflects the brand’s appreciation for eco-friendly practices, with responsibly sourced fabrics to minimise environmental impact.
This commitment ensures that each piece is created with the well-being of the planet we share in mind, embodying the belief that fashion can be both beautiful and responsible.
In Ugee’s 2020 collection, this sentiment is vividly displayed through the masterful blend of African tradition and contemporary style. The collection not only celebrates the richness of indigenous aesthetics but also reshapes it for the modern, fashion-forward woman.

FLORA TWO-PIECE
This two-piece set effortlessly balances playfulness and sophistication. The sleeveless, flowy top paired with matching mid-length shorts, adorned in a floral motif that is both bold and understated, makes a perfect choice for a relaxed look. The design is grounded in African-inspired geometric patterns that blend seamlessly into contemporary shapes, making the outfit both stylish and flexible. It’s an ensemble that could transition smoothly from a beachside brunch to a chic city afternoon.
Design and Structure:
The sleeveless top is tailored with a relaxed, peplum-like fit, providing a subtle flare that adds a layer of drama to an otherwise minimalist design. The flowy nature of the top, combined with its slightly ruffled hem, brings a sense of movement to the outfit. The pairing of this top with structured shorts is a brilliant design choice, offering a balance between loose and fitted elements that enhance the wearer’s silhouette without compromising comfort.
Print and Colour:
The intricate floral patterns on the fabric bring life to this set, with dark navy and cream hues that exude a calming yet captivating effect. The colours are strategically chosen to highlight the floral designs without overwhelming the eye. This harmony between colour and print is a testament to Ugochukwu’s design philosophy, showing that bold patterns can still have an elegant, subtle allure.
Styling Potential:
This outfit’s versatility makes it easy to style for various occasions. Paired with minimalist accessories and sandals, it can serve as the perfect ensemble for a warm day out. For a more elevated look, consider accentuating the outfit with statement earrings or a stack of delicate bracelets. A sleek, loose hairstyle complements the outfit’s laid-back essence, though an up-do could also work to emphasise the neckline and allow the top’s pattern to take centre stage.
By including a two-piece set that can be paired individually with other outfits—the flared top with another trouser, or the shorts with a different top—Ugochukwu addresses the fast fashion world, where clothes are churned out almost by the second. Instead, he opts for a more sustainable approach by releasing collections ethically sourced and strategically timed. As an African designer, his structured release intervals are commendable, allowing for innovative, thoughtful designs.
Overall, this ensemble is an exemplary representation of how fashion can merge cultural motifs with contemporary trends. It retains the essence of African aesthetics while embracing a universal appeal, making it a wardrobe staple for the modern woman who values comfort and elegance. The two-piece set speaks to an appreciation for design that celebrates heritage without being confined by it.
KUJU JUMPSUIT

A turquoise and navy floral jumpsuit is a show-stopper anytime, any day. Its vibrant colour mix commands attention. Designed with voluminous, three-quarter sleeves and a cinched waist, this jumpsuit exudes sophistication and elegance. It’s a piece that feels timeless yet has enough contemporary flair to resonate with today’s trends.
Design and Fit:
The structured fit of this jumpsuit is a marvel of modern tailoring. The bodice hugs the waist beautifully, accentuating the figure, while the wide-legged cut offers both style and freedom of movement. The three-quarter balloon sleeves are a bold addition, creating a sense of regal poise.
The sleeves also add balance to the piece, contrasting the fitted waist and elongating the overall silhouette. This combination makes the jumpsuit a versatile choice, appropriate for both formal events and upscale social gatherings.
Fabric and Texture:
The fabric choice is integral to the allure of this piece. The blend of colours—turquoise against a deep navy—creates a mesmerising backdrop for the floral design, adding depth and dimension to the outfit. The fabric appears to have a slightly reflective quality, enhancing the vibrancy of the floral pattern. This choice of material not only adds visual interest but also contributes to the luxurious feel of the fit.
Styling Potential:
The jumpsuit is a statement on its own and requires minimal accessorising. A pair of simple heels, as styled in the photoshoot, brings an elegant touch without detracting from the design’s boldness. Understated earrings or a delicate bracelet would suffice to maintain focus on the jumpsuit’s intricate patterns and structure. A smooth, straight hairstyle adds to the polished feel, allowing the sleeves and neckline to stand out. Alternatively, an elegant updo could elevate the look further, especially for more formal settings.
This jumpsuit is a testament to Ugee’s dedication to creating pieces that marry elegance with cultural heritage. It reinterprets traditional African motifs in a way that feels both classic and current, showcasing the designer’s ability to innovate while respecting tradition.
The entire pieces in the brand’s collection nod to the brand ethos: every woman is a queen and deserves to be treated as such. Ugee continually celebrates the elegance of Black women and girls in every shade, from the lightest to the darkest skin tones. Each outfit encourages women to embrace their identity and express themselves through fashion that reflects their heritage while honouring the environmental impact of their fashion choice.