By Rita Okoye

January 4, 2023, will go down in history as the rise of Crown and Culture, Eric Akinnaso’s new line, within motifs by Eric, which premiered at a ceremony marking its standout win at the 2022 Lagos Fashion Awards.

This not only showcased the date special but also set up a strategic timing, placing the line hand in glove with the rise of Nigerien fashion by incorporating nearly iconic heritage styles into a collection that screams Yoruba ceremonial dress codes.

The collection provides a detailed insight into Eric, the illustrator. Every piece tells the story of Yoruba nobility deliberately. It has a grand agbada in rich royal blue or regal gold. The agbadas are layered with designs, from the beautiful use of vertical appliqué arrangements to woven patterns that provide an expensive look. However, one may feel that the illustrative ambition has gone beyond what is imaginable in these designs. Beyond the literal heritage designs, there is room to experiment with abstract patterns or symbols that equally refer the wearer to Nigerian identity and culture.

The blue agbada’s appliqué topstitching is also quite regular, showing the competent application of a straight stitch for securing heavier decorative elements. Close inspection reveals that some areas exhibit minor tension issues in curved sections, resulting in puckering and a loss of crispness in the edges, which indicates the need for quality hand-finishing techniques to address delicate curves.

The interior finishes are even more neglected; neither brand labels nor care instructions are included. These features are secondary in classic tailoring; however, they are essential for any designer aiming to make a professional impression. Similarly, applied appliqué edges appear unfinished in parts and finished meticulously in others, with solid craftsmanship evident in certain areas and loose threads and uneven tension visible in others.

Looks like Eric’s perfect recreation of ceremonial wear: a theatrical, flowing agbada with grand movements. The designs might be big enough for ceremonial movement-walking, forwarding a gesture, or dancing; thus, Crown and Culture find a place in his collection. Eric Akinnaso has produced work that enables him to design for high-prestige, formal events—a niche that’s very lucrative in the Nigerian demand for men’s fashion. But it will also show him precisely what it is about Motifs by Eric that separates top-tier bespoke straight from everything else. This means achieving even greater advancements in construction quality, including a better fit through preliminary measuring and precise measurements, as well as bringing finishing details up to the level expected of a top brand.

Market-wise, it will be most acceptable to wealthy Nigerian men, black or white, who appreciate cultural richness and authenticity for weddings, ceremonies, and chieftaincy events. These parts would show a whole headpiece, a large form, accounting for dramatic volume when in an agbada. Therefore, the design is rich in ceremonial movements, including walking, gesturing, and dancing. Crown and culture will be a valuable addition to Eric Akinnaso as an illustrator and a master tailor. It makes Motifs by Eric stretch the win in the Lagos Fashion Awards to a bold assertion that they are among the countries interpreting heritage menswear.