THE RISE OF AFRO-CENTRIC FASHION IN THE GLOBAL MARKET: HOW UNIQ’S COLLECTION IS PAVING THE WAY
By Rita Okoye
A recent UNESCO report became a game-changer for those in the African fashion industry or aspiring to join it. Why? Because it highlights Africa’s growing global influence in fashion, with an impact that is far from minor. The report forecasts a 42% increase in demand for African high fashion over the next decade, solidifying the continent’s place on the global fashion stage.
Truly, fashion is taking off in Africa, and it is transforming the industry. The booming industry holds the potential to create enormous jobs. However, this rise came with challenges. For instance, Nigeria’s textile industry flourished in Africa in the 60s and 70s but later faced a downturn as second-hand and foreign-made clothes flooded African markets.
Thankfully, the tide has turned, with African fashion now making significant contributions to the global scene. In fact, as of January 2024, Africa’s fashion industry accounted for about 1.2% of the global fashion market.
While this may seem like a magical rise, African fashion designers have been intentional about showcasing their craft on the world stage, which has positively impacted the industry. Fashion shows, competitions, and collaborations have brought international attention to African designers. Events like Lagos Fashion Week and Dakar Fashion Week have provided a platform for designers to present their work to an international audience.
One of such intentional fashion designers contributing to the global relevance of cultural outfits is Ugochi Peace Okeke; a pioneer of the UniQ fashion brand, which has been in existence since 2019.
With her insightful touch and impeccable understanding of the fashion industry, Ugochi knows how to make a global statement with fashion pieces. UniQ brand continues blazing the trail in the industry- specifically, slow fashion. The luxury label meets the needs of women who seek to create an identity and make fashion-forward choices with their outfits—decisions that are safe for the environment amidst the growing culture of sustainability.
Ugochi effortlessly meets these needs with the UniQ brand, which exemplifies sustainability and inclusivity in all its designs. Vibrant, stunning, and minimal are words to describe the core of the epic collection, with designs that appeal to women who embrace their femininity and seek to express their personalities through their clothing. Driven by a desire to refine women’s perceptions, Ugochi infuses close-knit details, weaving stories into every fabric choice and design element. The depth of the cultural heritage of the African continent is a major inspiration for her, which is what propels her to combine Afro-centric pieces with an approach that deeply resonates with a global audience.
As a pioneer in the Nigerian fashion scene, UniQ is committed to advancing ethical production and sustainability in fashion, by producing outfits in small batches to meet specific needs. Ensuring she doesn’t contribute to the 92 million tonnes of textile waste, produced annually in the fashion industry. This dedication to ethical fashion is not only significant on a global scale but also creates a deeper connection between the consumer and the clothing they wear, helping them make environmentally friendly decisions through their seemingly simple outfit and brand choices.

Aside from being environmentally conscious, there is also the growing need to balance great looks for a goal-oriented woman, who gracefully celebrates her culture in any room without fear of being judged. This has become a fashion trend many are hopping on.
However, this growing need to balance fashion with daily business, while remaining smart and stylish in ethnically themed designs, is one that many struggle with—especially as women break glass ceilings and face increasing demands in their careers. However certain figures are changing that. One of such notable person is Okonjo-Iweala; the current Director General of the World Trade Organisation (WTO).
She graciously rocks African fabric, so much so that a little girl was inspired to dress like her to school—yes, in Ankara fabric. The influence of fashion, particularly African fashion, on the global stage truly knows no bounds.
As seen in the Core Epic Collection, this is one of the driving forces and passions behind the collection, especially with the creation of smart ready-to-wear jumpsuits. A modish yet Afrocentric look with bright, colourful prints that make for a dazzling outfit that is yet minimal.
The wave of minimalism in the creative industry has been on the rise, especially among designers. However, it takes a special craft to create designs that are minimal yet captivating. Achieving simplicity in design while maintaining allure is a professional skill that is truly exceptional—this perfectly describes the Uwa gown. A highlight of the design themes of the 2023 collection is the fusion of Ankara and chiffon—a gauze-like fabric known for its sheer and shimmery nature.
The chiffon drapes gracefully in each outfit, adding a sophisticated and creative touch to each of the outfits. As a designer, Ugochi prides herself in impeccable finishing, exemplified by the carefully sewn chiffon sleeves, which are hemmed with a whip-stitch for a refined look, showcasing his craftsmanship.
The right use of material to symbolize ideas and identity is much celebrated in the fashion world. Hence, coming up with beautiful couture goes beyond just mixing and matching colours; it takes the right knowledge of materials suited for an outfit, and Ugochi thrives in this skill. Her use of crepe fabric brings softness and subtle elegance to the entire collection.
Contrast is another element that makes the Core epic collection stand out. The combination of plain crepe and bold Ankara prints draws attention to different parts of the designs, giving it a high-fashion edge. The details in the outfits- buttons, ruffles and slits, create an eye-catching choice, symbolising creativity, energy, and warmth. As they all bring an aesthetic embellishment to the pieces.

The gown especially encapsulates the essence of feminine energy intertwined with modernity. Its daring high-slit design introduces an element of sensuality that boldly challenges conventional fashion boundaries. The high slit, crafted from vibrant Ankara fabric, captures attention and admiration, symbolising a seamless blend of contemporary design sensibilities with traditional African motifs.
The choice of purple for the Ankara fabric enhances the gown’s regal aura, evoking feelings of royalty, luxury, and nobility. The intricate details woven into the design—the harmonious mix of flowy chiffon and bold Ankara fabric coupled with a high-slit feature—render it an incredibly versatile piece suitable for different occasions such as formal events, weddings, or high-fashion gatherings.
Ugochi’s technique consistently merges exquisite design with contemporary flair, creating aesthetically pleasing outfits that celebrate the modern woman in a minimal yet electrifying manner. From the balance of contrasting fabric textures to the strategically placed slit and vibrant colour palette, every aspect of the Uwa gown radiates appeal from every angle.
The jumpsuits from the Core Epic Collection exemplify this driving force behind Ugochi’s designs. This piece offers a smart yet Afrocentric look adorned with bright and colourful prints that make for an eye-catching outfit.
The thoughtful selection of materials plays a crucial role in symbolizing ideas and identity within this collection. Crafting beautiful couture transcends simply mixing colours; it requires an understanding of which materials best suit each design concept—and Ugochi excels in this regard. Her choice of crepe fabric imbues softness and subtle elegance into the entire jumpsuit while ensuring comfort without sacrificing style.
Characterized by the wide-legged features of the Jumpsuit, the outfits are designed for sassy, confident women who appreciate ethnic identity in their fashion choices without compromising on sophistication or comfort. The combination of satin—a fabric known for its smooth finish—and bold yellow Ankara creates a refined look imbued with cultural significance.
The juxtaposition between these textiles brings visual interest while portraying how modern traditional fashion can blend global influences with indigenous elements to create unique cross-cultural styles.
From the tight-fitted cuffs at the wrist to balance out voluminous leg-of-mutton sleeves, to the cut at a midi length, these outfits offer freedom of movement while maintaining an air of elegance—making them versatile enough for both formal occasions paired with heels or casual outings styled with sandals. This adaptability allows wearers to transition seamlessly between settings while exuding charm and confidence.
While the idea of adding ruffles to the lower part of the orange jumpsuit could be a nod to bringing a zestful twist, this decision may come across as overwhelming. Although the interplay of design elements in this collection celebrates craftsmanship, some of these could benefit from being toned down with less elaborate details. Imagine the orange jumpsuit without the ruffles, allowing the true beauty of the trousers to shine, which would have resulted in a more classic and minimal outfit that remains chic and ethereal.
By incorporating Ankara fabrics into jumpsuits and a gown—particularly one featuring a high slit—Ugochi boldly asserts the importance of elevating African fashion on the global stage. The Ankara fabric has evolved into a symbol of nobility and style, thanks to its adaptability and striking patterns that convey both tradition and modernity.
The entire collection speaks volumes about Ugochi’s commitment to showcasing her craftsmanship and design skills while integrating cultural fabrics, nuances, and techniques into contemporary fashion. With outfits that are well-suitable for women who desire either minimalistic designs, bold fashion statements, or a blend of both while expressing their heritage. All of these elements are evident in Ugochi’s masterpiece- an emphasis on her ultimate goal to push the African narrative forward in the global fashion industry.
The UniQ fashion brand continually makes pieces that are significant to the modern-day woman, who wants to make statements at high-profile events where cultural pride seamlessly intersects with modern taste. The label artfully blends African fabrics and motifs with contemporary cutting-edge fashion elements showcasing not just style but also confidence and creativity in its wearer.