In the line of fashion that is slowly tilting towards Western culture, Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear desires to showcase the African story while adding a modern touch to it. The brand rolls with this philosophy that one can reimagine bold and daring designs without losing its roots.

This brand prides itself on creating authentic designs that portray not just luxury alone, but also confidence as well. We get to see that in their 2022 collection. But can they deliver that magic in 2023?

The Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear is said to position itself in everyone’s mind. We are told to believe that each thread in the fabric was intentionally chosen to bring out the silhouette of every wearer and every body type. But how true is that?

In this article, I will showcase each outfit from the Vogue runway. Not just that, I’d be reviewing each piece to see if it clicks each box in a way that the magic from their 2022 collection wasn’t lost.

Opening the collection this is one look that somehow catches my attention, despite it being all black.
The minimalist yet edgy look is one that somehow stays true to the brand’s DNA.
The monochromatic black creates a sleek look that also feels modern. And the stylist’s choice of fabric adds this daring touch to the overall look.

I’d say that the sleeveless sheer shirt can be considered a bold choice that can attract many potential customers. It kind of offers transparency that plays with layers and texture.

The addition of the layered harness detail also introduces a slightly industrial element to it. This breaks the softness of the fabric with a structured accessory.

The matching trousers also contribute to this theme of transparency. The designer, did a good job with this because it somehow creates a cohesive look from head to toe.
I mean, the straight leg cut keeps the silhouette clean.The

The black belt isn’t far behind as well because it adds definition to the waist.
Though this is a statement look that works well with runway fashion like Lagos fashion week or even Vogue, there are areas where refinement from the designer can enhance the visual balance and also the wearability.

For instance, the sheer effect on both the top and trousers can feel overwhelming for potential customers. I’d suggest that the designer introduce an Opaque element. I mean, they could be something like a lined pair of trousers, or even a slightly lined shirt. This can make the look more versatile in a way that it can even be worn off the runway.

Another thing the designer also needs to take note of is that the trousers appear slightly loose at the hem. In a way, it can make the silhouette look less sharp, and nobody wants that. The designer would just have to apply a tailored finish to enhance the overall polish.
Looking closely at this piece, the brand appears to draw from modern utilitarian and deconstructed fashion codes. It successfully blends the practicality of workwear with the polish of high fashion, creating a look that feels structured, intentional and distinctly contemporary.

It’s safe to say that this blending reflects the growing trends in menswear towards a gender-fluid silhouette.
Now, in recent years, the fashion industry has embraced experimental menswear. I mean, Designers and the public have found a way to break the rigid gender norm. This whole piece fits into that. It offers a statement piece that challenges the traditional menswear boundaries.

In a way, that can hold a strong relevance in the fashion industry.
Before moving to the next piece, I’d say that this piece is reminiscent of Alyx, a fashion brand that is known for hardness and harness elements. But unlike that, we can see the African-ness in Tokyo James design.

I’ve talked about the first outfit, time to unveil the next one.
Now, for this second outfit, The designer, gets to showcase a piece that looks like the fabric is made with coated leather-like fabric. This choice of fabric seems like the right decision because it gives off that structural, edgy and also futuristic look to it.

The black colour gives off this strong bad-ass vibe, and the metallic zipper design adds this industrial edge to it.
The exaggerated shoulders and boxy silhouette make a strong fashion statement. It is no surprise that this would be displayed on Vogue Runway, and that is because a strong impact like this is perfect for runways.

Still, some areas may drive potential customers. I don’t mean the look isn’t great, but some areas need improvement. Once the designer can implement this feedback, it can turn this almost perfect look into a perfect one.

The first thing the designer needs to look out for is the mobility and the comfort of the wearer. Because the stiffness of this material may limit the movement and wearability on the runway. The stylist should introduce a softer fabric to help add more depth.
Also, pairing the structured top with a slimmer skirt or even trousers could help create a more balanced and even flattering look.

Talking about inspiration, I’d say that the designer drew his creativity from futuristic utilitarianism. I mean, the oversized jacket and the skirt give a blend of industrial and luxury craftsmanship.

And because the fashion industry has embraced concepts like functional-meet-fashion, the zippers and the buckles can be reimagined as decorative features. I’d say this aligns with the growing trend of gender fluid silhouette dominating both the luxury and streetwear markets.

Finally, we get to see the colours in this third outfit.
This rich, deep blue jacket seemed like it was made of structured fabric that adds depth and visual striking. The black glitter patches on the jacket also create this striking contrast that gives the outfit a modern look.

Still, the oversized jacket paired with the shorts makes everything heavy. I’d advise you to swap the shorts for trousers to give them a balanced look.
If the designer chooses to keep the shorts the way it is, then a lighter jacket would help balance the whole look.

It is clear that this piece draws inspiration from textural experimentation and modern tailoring. The result is a strong balance between traditional craftsmanship and contemporary streetwear, giving the look both cultural depth and a sharp, modern edge.
This whole look also feels like a mix of luxury fabric treatment and athletic styling, which can be very relevant to today’s fashion industry.

For this fourth look, we’ve been thrown into yet another world of black.
This next outfit is one made of a matte black shirt and a structured leather pleated skirt. One thing I would say caught my attention is the glossy finish.

The contrast between the soft, flowy fabric of the shirt and the rigid structure of the skirt just gives off that visual interest that can draw in any potential customer.
However, I’d say that there are things that could make them have second thoughts on whether to purchase this outfit or not.
One I’d point out would be the proportion balance of both the shirt and the skirt.
The bulk at the front of the skirt can disrupt the silhouette of the wearer.Anyone

Anyone seeing this would have the idea that it may make their hips look heavier when they move. The designer should smoothing the front folds in this case, to improve the silhouette.

I’d also advise that a bit of colour can be added to this. Maybe a tiny yellow belt? That can help bring out a cohesive story to the overall outfit.
Just like the outfit above, they seem to be inspired by deconstructed fashion. This sort of fashion style is often seen in collections from designers like Maison Margiela, who is known for unconventional cuts.

Looking at that comparison alone, I don’t need to spell out how relevant this is to the fashion world, but I would.
This style is relevant because of current trends. That part had been established. I mean, we have the trends that are experimental tailoring, mixed materials, and of course, gender fluid silhouette.The

The combination in the piece aligns with the industry’s explorative contrast, which has to do with hard vs. soft. Or in this case, edgy skirt vs soft shirt.
Unveiling the last but definitely not the least in this collection.

This outfit is one with the combination of black fabric and shimmering lime-green panels. Eye-catching, isn’t it? The green gives the look of a dynamic and almost futuristic edge that would definitely hold its place under the runway light.

If I’m going to pick one of the strongest features of this styling, it’s going to be its bold colour blocking. The green just elongates the silhouette perfectly. The matching top and trousers also create this cohesive look, and the sheer black fabric adds depth.

Still, while the colour may be eye-catching and all, the balance between the sheer black on the shirt and the green might appear heavy.
I’d advise that the designer consider adding lining to the shirt to make it more wearable in an everyday setting. Everyone loves an outfit that is versatile.

Speaking of inspiration, I’d say the stylist got inspired by futuristic styling, or even nature itself.
The green in the material reminds me of the rain forest in a way, while the structured silhouette keeps it grounded in a contemporary way.

This particular piece also reminds me of JW Anderson, a designer who also pushes boundaries with colour.
Overall, this kind of styling can easily sit well with luxury styling and experimental tailoring, which makes it relevant to a fashion industry that is pushing gender fluid design.
Looking at Tokyo James Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear, I can tell that the brand and this collection strongly tell a story through fabric, stitches, and cut.

The designer plays with not just inspiration, but also colours as well, which makes each outfit stand out. The brand makes colour blocking a styling technique, and not many brands do that, which makes the collection authentic. The suggestions weren’t made to point out flaws, but to enhance the styling to a more perfect look.

It’s safe to say that this year’s collection didn’t drop the ball, and Tokyo James has successfully delivered a body of work that is visually inviting to the general public without losing the African touch.

By Dimeji Alara