In a fashion world that is continually shifting, Jermaine Bleu proves that modern fashion can be trendy yet connected to its true heritage.

The fashion brand that has been producing a ready to wear label in both menswear and womenswear since 2015 stunned on the Lagos fashion week 2022 runway with fashion statement that tells the African story.
The Jermaine Bleu brand focuses on creating fashion collections as storytelling These designs explore the African heritage, identity, and the ever-evolving experience of modern Africa. With a design language that is expressive, original, and yet contemporary, Jermaine Bleu tells the African story with roots in Ghana.

The brand is intentional in staying true to this vision, and it shows in how it allows traditional knowledge to sit on a modern ready-to-wear piece. The brand is also committed to slow fashion to make fashionable pieces that stand the test of time and are manufactured through ethical processes.
The Spring Summer 2023 collections showcased at the Lagos Fashion Week 2022 brings the brand’s vision to life. Here are the beautiful pieces I find exciting in this collection and how they portray the brand’s vision.

One thing I find fascinating about this piece is its use of vibrant colours. This allows the garment to catch immediate attention on the runway and is perfectly in tandem with Jermaine Bleu’s creative philosophy of using expressive colours to tell the story of African heritage and culture.
I find that the choice of satin fabric in bright orange colour catches the light easily, giving the ready-to-wear two-piece an aura of luxurious ease and fluidity. The crafted pointed collar on this piece also adds a modern element which ultimately elevates the shirt into a fashion statement.

The designer uses solid cuts and well-defined tailoring to give the garment a structure that not only accentuates the silhouette but also gives it that rich African vibe. The dark slides footwear added to the entire look gives it a modern touch that is visually expressive, taking it away from just another trendy outfit.
However, I’d like to recommend a few adjustments for this design. The choice of fabric ‘satin’ is fluid and delicate in nature. This adds a pulling tension to the garment, especially the shirt. I think a heavier choice of fabric, for example silk, will prevent the fabric from straining so much, ensuring a clean drape on the upper bodice.
Also, the trousers sit in a middle ground. It is neither short nor long. If the hem is refined to drop further, it would make the fabric proportions look more intentional.
Additionally, I think having just one colour makes the entire look intense. The designer might want the outfit to be visually expressive, but introducing neutral colours in the form of a belt, an innerwear, or an embellishment can help balance out the colours.
Finally, I recommend a more flowy structure for the outfit. This will make it look less casual and more fitting to any kind of occasion.

The next look in this collection is this well-tailored silhouette with its structured shoulders and neat pocket detailing. I can see that it is carefully tailored to drop on the wearer’s body without feeling too uncomfortable. The shimmering fabric then brings the entire design to life with its orange colours.
Also, I like the use of bold buttons on the shirt-dress, albeit in a different colour. I find that the colour of the button matches the stiletto heels, and that is a good use of creative freedom to bring this piece to life.
Jermaine Bleu tries to tell cultural stories through each garment, and this dress blends classic modern styles with African roots so nicely. The choice of fabric and colour represents a celebration of the warm heritage of Africa. With this piece, the designer turns an everyday cloth into a powerful reclamation of cultural pride.

However, the fit around the upper body feels too loose, thereby hiding the body’s natural shape. I recommend more waist definition, as this would give this fit more structure and make it look even sharper than it is.
Another thing I think needs some work is the length of the dress. I picture a drop of the hem by a few inches could give the dress a more sophisticated look. Or it can be moved upward a bit to help elongate the wearer’s legs, giving a classier look.
While admiring the outfit, I noticed that the front pockets were a little off, as one looks a little higher on one side than the other. If the front pockets line up exactly with each other, that would lend a little more elegance to the overall outfit.
Lastly, the metallised look of the fabric, together with the exaggerated lapel of the jacket, produces a reflective flash under strong studio light. Adding a small matte backing to the fabric would bring back some of this reflected light to give the garment a more toned-down, high-fashion appearance.

This is one design I found that truly matches Jermaine Bleu’s creative philosophy. The free-flowing printed top connects to traditional Ghanaian craft. I can clearly see that the designer has used an artistic textile, which helps to bring its vision to life. With this piece, the designer successfully tells the story of culture and heritage in a modern way.  
Moreso, I find that this garment showcases the designer’s talent for original pattern development. The skirt adds a handmade-style print to break up the textures used through the rest of the garment, too.
While the mix of a casual top with a wrap-skirt might be a bit random, these work to achieve that breezy, comfortable and laid-back silhouette with artistic undertones.
One thing I think would make a difference would be a stronger colour scheme to ensure the overall silhouette doesn’t come across a little too disorganised. I think having a busy graphic print on a bright plain bottom can feel visually competing rather than expressive.
Another thing worthy of note is that the flow of the top is a bit restrictive. Giving some allowance for the top to flow will give the entire look more flare than what it already has.
The neckline tie on this top, I believe, could be refined. It takes away from the graphically driven feel of the hand-drawn print. Using a simple band neck would keep the focus entirely on the fabric with the print on it.

The next eye-catching piece in this collection is this orange patterned buttoned-down shirt on matching trousers. If there is one obvious thing about the brand, it is that it is not afraid to redefine menswear with bold and artistic textile wear that boldly expresses modern Africa.
I can see the clean-cut lines of both the shirt and the trousers, and this sits on the wearer effortlessly. The sharp, crisp collar and loose chest pocket provide structure without sacrificing the simplicity and essence of African Ghanaian craftsmanship in the design.
However, I think the fit and proportion of the trousers could use a little more work. It appears too long and loose around the legs, which adds a dent to the already clean structure of the outfit. The pattern and colour are already expressive; if the trousers are tighter, it will balance the entire outfit. Also, everything would have been paired better with slides or a shoe, as that would further elevate the look.
In the same way, the loose fit of the matching shirt drowns the wearer, which takes away from the modern fit. Adding side seams in the shirt would be a good call to achieve a sharper, semi-fit shirt that fits effortlessly into the tailored pants.

The next piece from this collection I find intriguing is this double-breasted jacket on slim-cut trousers. The designer adorns the jacket with gold embellishments, and carefully tailors it to sit on the wearer like a second skin. This helps the wearer radiate the confidence of a typical African while wearing this piece. I specifically like the structured shoulders and clean lines in the tailoring. With this garment, Jermaine shows yet again its talent for contemporary tailoring.
This striking blue suit in a damask fabric shows the designer’s attempt to link modern African expression to deeply rooted African craftsmanship. By blending blue color with hand-crafted embellishments, this piece shows the true African culture.
However, the jacket’s double-breasted button placement looks a bit stiff. A little more ease to the cut will help enhance its fluidity, adding more effortless confidence to the wearer.
Also, because the damask fabric is so heavy, the hip of the double-breasted jacket could easily swing out of shape.
I would suggest the addition of internal canvas structural tailoring to hold the jacket panels in place and make them lay flat around the body.
Still, this piece tells the story of African heritage in a modern way.
At first glance, Jermaine Bleu’s collections share certain qualities with Emmy Kasbit’s work, particularly their visually expressive approach to contemporary African ready-to-wear. However, Jermaine Bleu’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection distinguishes itself through a creative direction centred on the modern African experience, using heritage, cultural identity and Ghanaian craftsmanship as foundations for contemporary design. This considered balance between tradition and modernity gives the brand a distinctive position within the competitive international fashion industry.
By infusing the designer’s collection with cultural elements tailored to proudly showcase identity, craftsmanship, and the evolving experience of modern Africa, the designer attempts to establish a distinctive position within a fashion industry increasingly dominated by trend-driven clothing.
From an industry perspective, the Jermaine Bleu brand has made a name for itself with its commitment to slow fashion and the preservation of textile processes. This also positions the designer as one that contribute to sustainability in the fashion world.
While there are parts of this collection that could benefit from a few improvements, especially in balancing out the outfits and ensuring tailoring is more precise across all parts of the garment. Jermaine Bleu still delivers a collection that not only visualizes modern Africa, but one that is culturally grounded and commercially appealing. True to the brand’s vision, the brand demonstrates that African designers can create authentic fashion pieces without sacrificing their identity.

By Dimeji Alara