Time and time again, fashion has been used not only to enhance people’s beauty, but also to tell stories, stories that sometimes stay hidden and untouched. This is mostly what drives every fashion brand, the ability to create out of reality, and out of the ordinary.

When I think about it, I see Cynthia Abila as one of such brands. Cynthia Abila has continued to share African stories with it’s designs. And it’s SS23 collection, themed “Sold to the gods,” expresses how passionate the brand is about this mission.

Her designs range from sculptural silhouettes, structured blazers with woven fabric detailing, and flowing dresses emblazoned with modern prints.

A look into this collection will explain better.
Moana from the animated movie may or may not be the best way to describe this outfit, but this is exactly the first impression it gives me.
The first outfit I’ll be reviewing for the SS23 collection comes in a white two-piece set of a long sleeved shirt and flared skirt.

The sleeve of the shirt, from arm to ankle, is designed with an African print, just something to give it a more traditional feel. The skirt also takes a portion of this printed delight, too.
Structure-wise, the outfit leans into both masculinity and femininity. The shirt, being on the masculine side, reflects control and standard. It sits firm and doesn’t look sloppy. The sleeves are also fluid, which means more room for movement.

Compared to the sleeves’ fluidity, the body of the shirt looks a bit relaxed and attached to the skin. It also exposes some skin above the waist due to its crop-like nature.
The skirt, however, is a little more air friendly. It comes in a pleated and flared form and looks very easy to move around with, the second reason why it reminds me of ‘Moana.’
It is below knee length, which makes it acceptable to different kinds of wearers. This outfit is an embrace of both genders, and it gives a unique interpretation of that.

In fashion, fabric is always the next thing after design that makes any outfit come alive. In this piece, though the design and art are undeniably applaudable, the choice of fabric might be questioned. Not that there is anything wrong with the fabric, but it might not be the first choice on a hot, sunny day.
For this kind of style, and for preference and weather conditions, the designers should consider using a different kind of fabric, one that allows breathability and is climate friendly.

The second outfit comes with a mission to enchant and to persuade. It looks like a jumpsuit, a special kind, but it is most likely a two-piece also.

The flamboyant piece is a yellow long-sleeved shirt and bubu trousers plastered with white designs. Designs like this are known as ‘Adire,’ a Yoruba originated material that embodies its history, culture, and inventiveness.
Another feature that also stands out in this outfit is the joint stitch.

Here, the shirt is attached to the trousers a little bit. This style is creative and sensual.
I like the fabric choice as well. It looks very soft and feminine. This makes room for the shirt to be modest, and the trousers flexible.
As a recommendation, to prevent the outfit, the shirt, especially, from looking oversized, the sleeves should be trimmed. This will make the outfit a bit better.

Also, the trousers could have side pockets. This would elevate the look and make the outfit feel more sophisticated. There could also be a remake of this design in the skirt collection. Having variety in fashion has always made decisions easier for wearers and for designers.

If outfits could talk, they would say, ‘Show me a boss, and I will direct you to the real one.’
This look is stunning.
It has a mixture of elements that makes it adaptable and fashionable. Here, the outfit features a printed gown, a chest length, navy blue, long-sleeved jacket, and a sky-blue hat and tie.
It might feel like a mouthful and look excessive, but it is most definitely creative.
Structure-wise, the gown is rightly fitted and expresses the figure of the wearer in an alluring way. The upper body leans in more tightly, while the lower part feels a bit more flexible. The jacket adds to the chicness, and the hat and tie balance the look, creating a summer feel.

Fabric-wise, the prints look solid, and the plain jacket carefully complements the gown. Also, the hat and tie bring some sort of spark into the outfit with their bright color.
As a recommendation, the designers should consider making another version of this outfit in a shorter length. What we currently have here is modest enough, but for ladies who are trimmer and a little on the skinny side, they might want to show some legs.

Giving them the luxury of that will be a good addition.
Secondly, more colors could be added. Not a rainbow festival kind, but a subtle one.
Yes, the sky blue does a little bit of color pop, but something to make the outfit itself more vibrant will be a good option, like a white stripe, instead of the navy blue we currently have in between the gown. The side pocket could also be switched to white, just for contrast.

The fourth outfit is another Adire print in red.
In the first image is a flabby gown that features a waist belt. This gown takes the form of many attires, including bathrobes and nightwear, because of how it is structured. It looks very comfortable and will permit movement.

It has a V-neck cut, and it can still maintain its shape because of its waist belt and fluid sleeves.
The second image gives a lot of drama, unlike the first. It comes in a plum crop top and a high-waist string skirt. The features are what make this outfit stand out. The crop top reveals a lot of skin. And it takes a puffed shape, almost like air was blown into it.
The skirt, on the other hand, refuses to be ordinary with its compelling string from the knees to the ankle. This outfit is runway worthy, and it expresses fashion art.

The first outfit in this section should be made specifically by the designer. Is it casual, stay-at-home, or any event fit?
Somehow, because of the little creativity put into this fit, the piece looks very ordinary and can be compared to any kind of wear. A little creativity around the waist, length, chest, and sleeves will bring transformation to the outfit.
As for the second outfit, more creative patterns will be needed. Such as a crop shirt and trousers, a puffy top and trousers, or a crop shirt and skirt. Variety makes it spicy.

The last of this collection comes in three. Each piece is stylish, beautiful, and daring.
The first image is a sleeveless buttoned gown with a lot of strings below the knees and beside the shoulders. The strings are the main characters here; they gracefully enhance the movement of the wearer, and they bring life to what almost looks like a plain gown.
These strings remind me of the African ‘masquerade’ attire. Its addition makes this outfit more attractive and compelling.

The outfit in the second image takes the structure of a kaftan gown. It is sleeveless, just like first, and the waist is pinched a little bit to have a snatched effect. The shoulders look very straight and firm. By the side of the gown are ruffles. They are not as dramatic as an actual ruffle, but they stick out with the same effect.

The gown is beautifully finished with little strings at the hem level. These strings add even more drama and make the gown classy. I love how modest it looks, and how it can pass for like ‘rich auntie’ wear.
The last outfit in this colorful printed fabric is a coat gown. It is balanced, straight, and firm at the edges. It has a V-neckline feature that introduces a bit of sensuality and feminine touch, yet its bodily structure tilts a bit more towards the masculine side.

This outfit is a bit of both worlds, and I find it very impressive to be seen with such delicate and solid features.
All outfits in this section are dazzling and uniquely sewn, but they all lack one thing in common: an extra item.
Yes, the fabric is lovely, but it risks being too bland. The only feature making this outfit stand out right now is the strings. There’s no extra support or attachment for the eyes to linger on.

As a recommendation, a wine scarf, belt, hat, gold embroidery, or fancy button could be added to enhance this look and bring it up to its expectations.
So far, Cynthia’ Abila’s SS23 collection has proven to be bold, authentic, and daring. The Osu Caste system in Igbo land inspires every outfit in this collection. Far from being pretty, this collection speaks on the innermost practices of culture that feel unjust and cry for a change. This collection brings awareness to this cause and teaches everyone to always stand for what is right.

With such talent and passion, Cynthia Abila reminds me of fashion designers like Grey Projects and Deola Sagoe. These designers have stood tall and maintained their craft in creating couture with vibrant prints and African influences. Like Cynthia Abila, they elevate African fabrics into high-fashion statements and offer clean, modern lines while still referencing Nigerian heritage.

Although there are similarities between brands, Cynthia Abila knows how to make a story out of theirs. The brand has made sure its designs are not just serving the usual natural course of being clothed, but they are also serving a transformation to the minds of several individuals and cultures.

As the brand continues its creative journey, it promises one thing: sharing the truth through art. However, for a brand with such a mission to protect African heritage, this collection is a reminder that technical skill and fabric aesthetics alone aren’t enough.

Cynthia Abila’s SS23 collection has flashes of brilliance in design, color, fitness, and attitude. If they can fully fuse traditional narrative depth with modernity, there’s no doubt this brand will continue to influence the future of African fashion.

By Dimeji Alara