By Yemisi Suleiman

Oyewale Oyelami unveiled his latest menswear collection, Akanni’s Closet, for Bernanjo Couture.

An expert in fashion design, Oyewale wielded his profound technical skills to create garments, just as he has been doing as the creative lead of Bernanjo Couture; this time, he reimagined the possibilities of aso-oke fabric in contemporary menswear.

Akanni’s closet features an interesting mix of outfits, including aso-oke shorts with side pockets paired with buttoned cashmere tops accented by an aso-oke breast pocket.

Oyewale’s expertise in garment construction is evident in the precise points of measure (POMs) – from the proportion of the shorts to the seamless integration of pockets without any major interception in the fabric’s drape.

The breast pocket, a small yet impactful detail, added a dimension that subtly celebrates the heritage of aso-oke. Another standout piece is the plain cashmere top featuring a modest slit at the neckline, a detail that embodies quiet sensuality.

The slit is cleanly finished, demonstrating expert seam allowance calculations and stitching, ensuring the garment maintains its structure while exuding elegance. The two-piece tailored ensemble is perhaps the collection’s most conceptual piece.

It features pants and a long top jacket designed to be worn open, and this makes the outfit an exploration of layering and movement. The edges of the top jacket, lined with aso-oke fabric, frame and give the wearer a flowing, almost regal view.

The absence of closures here is a bold design choice, challenging traditional notions of fastening and inviting wearers to embrace a new kind of traditional fluidity. For the more utility pieces, like the long-sleeve shirts with aso-oke-accented cuffs and collars and the slightly baggy trousers featuring multiple patch pockets below the knees, Oyewale showcased his prowess in pattern-making and functional detailing.

Each pocket, crafted from different variants of aso-oke, is a nod to craftsmanship. While visually arresting, the multiple-pocket design raises questions about pocket depth and placement practicality.

Bernanjo Couture has built a reputation for blending heritage with modernity, and this collection is no exception. The use of aso-oke demonstrates the brand’s commitment to cultural storytelling.

However, the designs sometimes lean too heavily on the fabric’s narrative, neglecting other essential elements of menswear. The designs of Akanni’s closet offer diverse needs in terms of versatility that would make it a favourite of fashion enthusiasts.

The tops, shorts, and long-top jackets can all be styled as the wearer wishes, but the multi-pocket trousers, though eye-catching, might struggle to resonate with a broader audience. Oyewale could have explored more dynamic draping techniques in this collection, particularly with the aso-oke accents, to push the boundaries of traditional fabric use in menswear.

The choice of stitch on some pieces, such as the shorts, could have also been adjusted for a softer, more flexible finish.