By Yemisi Suleiman

In a world of fast fashion, Tejumola Temitope Fatigun of Otis Allure crafts collections that converse between textile and form.

Creative Director of Otis Allure, Tejumola, announced the arrival of the Coastal Region collection on September 22, 2023.

Her latest collection, an exploration of Kente, Batik, and Tani fabrics, moves from a parade of prints to a study of structure, fluidity, and layering with illustration and garment construction skills guiding each creation.

This review aims to discuss if this collection succeeds in finding balance amongst these factors.

The two-piece Kente ensemble possesses an armless crop top with butterfly-shaped sleeves – a design that showcases precise draping and controlled bulkiness at the armhole. The Kente fabric supports this structure and this exemplifies Tejumola’s skill in fabric manipulation.

The palazzo-shaped bottom, seemingly two-tiered, is where the construction gets even more complex. The wrapper skirt attachment, serving as the top tier, introduces a visual shift. However, the success of this design lies in how the wrapper interacts with the structured base. It flows naturally because of the smooth interfacing that complements the garment’s fluidity.

The Batik two-piece featuring a crop top that is a fusion of Kente and Batik is one of the collection’s more deliberate textile juxtapositions.

The shift from one fabric to another is excellent however, a French seam would have ensured durability while preventing puckering where the fabrics meet. The slitted palazzo pants introduce an element of sensuality and movement.

With deep side openings, the trousers promise fluidity when in motion. The weight of the Batik fabric supports the drape design and the slit’s rolled hem finishing method also prevents fraying.

The Batik two-piece that comprises of Batik jacket and bell-bottom trousers mixes contemporary style with old fashion inspirations. The bell-bottom trousers present a classic 70s style. Precision in hip-to-thigh ratio, knee break placement, and hem circumference allows the bell flare to appear well-proportioned.

The closure at the back of the pants lies flat against the lower back, although a lapped zipper technique would be a superior choice for ensuring a clean, uninterrupted back view. The single-button Batik jacket takes a minimalist approach to closure, but with its long, puffed sleeves, proportion becomes paramount.

Puff sleeves require careful control of easy distribution, especially at the wrist where the fullness is gathered.

Pairing Batik with Tani (smock fabric) presents a compelling textural contrast. The mini skirt and spaghetti strap top, both in Batik, offer a fitted base, while the open-front Tani jacket introduces volume and movement.

The Tani overlay extending from the skirt’s front is a bold construction choice. The elongation into a knee-length drop alters visual proportioning, subtly creating an elegant asymmetry.

The Coastal Region collection speaks directly to an audience that values cultural heritage, bold textile combinations, and balanced proportions. The blend of classic tailoring with flair makes the pieces adaptable for a wider audience. Tejumola’s designs are not afraid to take risks, and this collection solidifies her construction abilities.