…Here’s the science behind them

By Josephine Agbonkhese

While there are hundreds of skincare ingredients, a few have become widely celebrated for their transformative effects. On this power list are ingredients like hyaluronic acid, retinol, niacinamide, and vitamin C.
Learn here the science behind these interesting ingredients.

Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan found in the skin, connective tissues, and eyes. It’s a humectant, meaning it attracts and retains water molecules.

How It Works
HA can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it a powerful hydrator. It draws moisture from the environment or deeper skin layers to the surface, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines. It also supports the skin’s barrier function by maintaining hydration.

Benefits
Hydration: Enhances skin moisture, improving texture and elasticity.
Anti-Aging: Temporarily reduces the appearance of wrinkles by plumping the skin.
Wound Healing: Supports tissue repair and reduces inflammation.
Soothing: Calms irritated or sensitive skin.

Who Should Use It
HA is suitable for all skin types and pairs well with other ingredients like vitamin C or retinol. Use in serums or moisturisers, and remember to apply on damp skin for best results.

Retinol
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, part of the retinoid family. It’s a gold-standard ingredient in dermatology for its proven anti-aging and acne-fighting properties.

How It Works
Retinol penetrates the skin and converts to retinoic acid, which binds to retinoid receptors. This accelerates cell turnover, stimulating the production of new skin cells and collagen while inhibiting the breakdown of existing collagen. It also unclogs pores by reducing sebum production and dead skin cell buildup.

Benefits
Anti-Aging: Reduces fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots by boosting collagen and elastin.
Acne Treatment: Clears pores and reduces acne-causing bacteria.
Even Skin Tone: Fades hyperpigmentation and improves texture.
Pore Refinement: Minimises the appearance of enlarged pores.

Who Should Use It
Ideal for those with acne-prone, oily, or aging skin.
Beginners should start with low concentrations (0.1%-0.3%) to avoid irritation.
Not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding individuals due to potential risks.

Considerations
Start with 1-2 applications per week at night, gradually increasing frequency.

Use sunscreen daily, as retinol increases sun sensitivity.

Pair with a moisturiser to minimise dryness or peeling.

Avoid combining with exfoliants like AHAs or BHAs to reduce irritation.

Niacinamide
Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that supports the skin’s barrier and cellular functions.

How It Works
Niacinamide strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier by increasing ceramide production, which helps retain moisture. It inhibits melanin transfer to reduce hyperpigmentation, regulates sebum production, and has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties to protect against environmental damage.

Benefits
Brightening: Reduces dark spots and evens skin tone.
Barrier Support: Strengthens the skin, reducing sensitivity and moisture loss.
Oil Control: Balances sebum production, minimising shine.
Anti-Inflammatory: Soothes redness and acne-related inflammation.
Anti-Aging: Boosts collagen production and protects against oxidative stress.

Who Should Use It
Niacinamide is suitable for all skin types, especially oily, acne-prone, or sensitive skin. It’s a great option for those seeking to address hyperpigmentation, redness, or early signs of aging. Niacinamide is gentle and can be used alongside most ingredients.

Considerations
Concentrations of 2%-5% are effective for most benefits; higher strengths (10%) may target stubborn pigmentation but can irritate sensitive skin.

Avoid combining with vitamin C in the same routine to prevent potential irritation or reduced efficacy.

Use morning or night, often in serums or moisturisers.

Vitamin C
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a potent antioxidant found in citrus fruits and used in skincare for its brightening and protective properties.

How It Works
Vitamin C neutralises free radicals caused by UV radiation and pollution, preventing oxidative damage to skin cells. It inhibits melanin production to reduce hyperpigmentation and stimulates collagen synthesis for firmer skin. It also enhances UV protection when paired with sunscreen.

Benefits
Brightening: Fades dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and post-acne marks.
Anti-Aging: Boosts collagen production, reducing fine lines.
Antioxidant Protection: Shields skin from environmental damage.
Evens Skin Tone: Promotes a radiant complexion.

Who Should Use It
Ideal for those with dull, uneven, or aging skin. It’s beneficial for all skin types but may irritate sensitive skin at higher concentrations (above 10%). Those with oily or acne-prone skin may prefer derivatives like sodium ascorbyl phosphate, which are gentler.

Considerations
Use in the morning to maximise antioxidant benefits, followed by sunscreen.

Concentrations of 10%-20% are most effective, but sensitive skin should start lower (5%-10%).

Store in opaque, airtight containers to prevent oxidation, as vitamin C is unstable in light or air.