By Rita Okoye

Designing and making footwear is one craft that deserves more attention in the Nigerian fashion industry, and Kojae entrenches its roots in this path of fashion with its elegant shoes.

In its latest offering, the “Heritage Noir” Collection, the brand’s identity finds a confident echo in form and material.

With a fixed gaze on global relevance, Kojae speaks a language of timeless design through deliberate textures, quiet opulence, and expert shoemaking. At the heart of this collection is Temitayo John Adeyemi, a designer whose vision is as measured as it is magnetic.

One of the shoes in the collection is the reptilian embossed leather loafer that leans into statement wear. The mock-croc upper is balanced by the sleek placement of a gold horse-bit – a design decision that signals European formality but through an Afro-modern lens.

While the gold horse-bit adds a traditional luxury accent, its familiarity is a double-edged sword: it anchors the design but fails to introduce anything conceptually fresh. Its lug sole is quite an intelligent choice, giving the otherwise classic shape a utilitarian update that grounds the shoe for long-lasting use.

Another loafer design with a cooler perspective is a leather surface that mimics a woven finish, contributing to the quiet luxury statement the collection intends to make. The shoes possess dual gold-tone side buckles that sit on each side of the vamp – a deliberate deviation from the usual monk strap or penny loafer archetype.

The collection excels in material sophistication. The embossing on the reptilian leather loafer is not just decorative but deliberate. However, the soles present a design dissonance. The chunky outsole, while current and durable, feels slightly exaggerated against the otherwise classic upper.

It is as if the shoe can’t decide whether it’s aiming for boardroom elegance or a street-level vibe. A more cohesive approach to the sole design, like something slimmer, would have allowed the leatherwork to stand out without competing for attention.

The “Heritage Noir” Collection delivers undeniable value to Kojae’s portfolio. It affirms Temitayo’s ability to navigate between African design roots and global fashion ideas.

Market-wise, this collection positions Kojae to appeal to both fashion connoisseurs and upwardly mobile professionals who want distinction without excess.

They will thrive in cosmopolitan wardrobes: Lagos, London, New York – wherever quiet luxury and cultural fluency intersect.

Despite these, the collection needs a sharper signature and a clearer visual language that screams Kojae even without the label.

The collection is a testament to Temitayo John Adeyemi’s skill and his respect for the art of shoemaking. But at a time when design risks are becoming the new markers of luxury, Kojae’s shoes play it a little too safe.