By Rita Okoye

Anyone who has travelled or lived in any part of Africa must have observed one thing: the people’s love for the Ankara fabric.

Ankara, one of the most widely-used tailoring essentials, has become a fashion staple in homes, travelling through ancient times to the present moment, weaving narratives of African culture and traditions.

Three words perfectly describe the Ankara fabric: durable, multifunctional, and flexible. Beyond its bold aesthetic feel, people store Ankara fabrics due to their timeless value. The money used to purchase it is bound to double or triple when it is time to resell. This should tell you why Africans cherish this multipurpose clothing.

Today, the Ankara print is not just gaining popularity in Africa but also becoming a global attraction in the West. This development is thanks to the creative African fashion designers taking fashion to the international level using beautiful African fabrics that tell stories.

Historically, African textiles were limited to weddings and ceremonies, with dresses, skirts, and agbada as prominent styles. But this has changed. African fashion designers have uplifted the outlook of the fabric, giving it a global feel, with novel and bespoke styles communicating the unique texture and colours of the print. They have gone past antique styles to incorporate an eclectic fashion style. We have been blessed with sophisticated styles that can be worn anywhere and by anyone with different Ankara fabrics, such as Aso Oke, Kuba, Kente, Adire, and Adinkira.

Gone are the days when Ankara was limited to ceremonies. As people’s tastes evolve and fashion trends elapse, fashion designers are adept at flowing with the rhythm while serving fashionista power clothing. While the Ankara print is a delight on its own, it can only be brought to life by the hands of a creative – one who understands the art and science behind the craft.

Cletus Okpara, the founder of Chic City, a high-luxury fashion brand, is one whose colourful artistic creations with the Ankara print have earned him recognition from industry leaders in the fashion space. Over the years, Cletus has sprinkled his magic wand of ingenuity wrapped in different collections.

In 2022, his brand Chic City, gained prominence with its avant-garde styles consisting of vibrant, charming jumpsuits and dresses. One of Cletus’s strengths is his ability to marry traditional attires with Western fashion trends without losing the meaning behind the delicate Ankara fabrics. For someone whose name has generated the buzz, his 2024 collection came with more buzz.

Would he be able to serve the steeze in a very demure and respectful way?
Unveiling the Enenu Collection in a crowd of spectators with bright smiles, tabloid photographers clicking lights, and fashion critics staring intently at the runway, Cletus Opara spoke about the inspiration behind each piece, which is to celebrate traditional African clothing. As a brand, his mission is to see the Ankara fabric go beyond Africa and extend to the world.

The 2024 Enenu collection comprises 15 distinct designs made with Ankara wax print featuring geometric shapes, floral motifs, abstract shapes, and intricate patterns with bold and vibrant colours. Each piece is rocked by a model embodying the theme of the collection. One unique feature of the collection is the artistic expression displayed on each outfit. The designer was meticulous about the finishing details, sewing, and overall quality of the outfits.

Cletus Opara has always been an advocate for comfortability and this shines through in every garment. Though the attires accentuate the model’s petite figure, one can see the layer of contentment and ease on her face. While people desire trendy wear, there is also a demand for clothing that is not only tailored but offers flexibility.

Although the Enenu collection is hitting the mark, some outfits seem to stand above the others. The brainstorming, detailing, and finetuning of each one gave birth to outstanding creations.

Here are our top two looks in the 2024 Enenu Collection. For fashion enthusiasts looking to slay, Chic City offers a way out.

How does one create a two-piece shirt and shorts with Ankara fabric? Twenty years ago, this would have been impossible. It would have been a style reserved for contemporary fabrics, while the African print is relegated to the bottom-level field.

The designer shoves the regular dress to the side and unravels a trendy yet classy style for the modern Genz ladies. This look features a v-line shirt beautified with ankle sleeves and a three-step flare intersecting with the half-length fabric. Cascading between the neckline are three silver buttons that add glitter to it.
We have seen many Ankara shirts, but this stands out because of the extras on them. One unique thing about choosing a v-neck is that it draws attention to the neckline, making it appear taller and slimmer.

The designer achieved these two with his masterpiece. The neckline enhances the garment’s aesthetics and fits perfectly with the three-step flare at its hem. We love the meticulousness displayed in cutting the fabric into cone-like shapes and how it blends seamlessly with the half-length cut.

Completing the look, the designer opted for a plain knee-length short with a black fabric attached to the side, amplified by the radiant Ankara print. This outfit is simple yet striking due to the fabric used. The Ankara is a shiny gold fabric with flower motifs decorated around it, amplifying the style’s beauty.

One area where the designer should have sprinkled more creativity is the top. In this modern Genz era, young ladies want over-the-top styles that are head-turners. A little topping on the top could have sealed this look but we can’t disregard the fact that this two-piece attire is a hit. There is the potential in the market, and this is no surprise. Using a knee-length trouser instead of the conventional trouser increases its market demand.

Beyond clothing, Cletus Opera is known for styling his models with the appropriate accessories that complement the outfit. For this look, we have a silver cluster earring and a stud earring at the upper part of her ear, which blends with the silver buttons and creates a sharp contrast with the gold Ankara fabric. The black ankle strap heel is fiery, giving the model youthful beauty and vigour.

Our second-best outfit in the Enenu collection is the gorgeous long Ankara dress – an embodiment of the African tradition.

Before we explore the intricacies of this stunning dress, let’s talk about the printing on the fabric. This material combines diverse designs starting with the geometric white and black shape and a green hook pattern. The highlight is the horsetail, traditionally called ‘irukere’ by the Yoruba people in Nigeria. Irukere which is made from animal hair symbolises authority and power.

In ancient times, it was paraded by chiefs, kings, and wealthy men in the community. Representing this on the fabric reveals a salient part of the African culture, hampering Cletus Opara’s commitment to Afro-infused designs.

With this beautiful print, the designer created a lengthy asymmetrical gown styled with a Queen Anne neckline. Necklines have a way of projecting an outfit. If the designer had opted for a boat neck or round neck, the style would have fallen flat; however, this choice sits pretty well. Moving further, the Ankara fabric is merged with a blue satin fabric, enhancing its aesthetics.

If we sum this dress as flawless, we won’t be going against any fashion rule. It is uncommon to see fashion designers go for simplicity and still slay. One key strength of this attire is its versatility. It is not restricted to the Genzs alone, fashion-forward middle-aged women who are conscious of their style can comfortably rock this.

This dress can be accentuated by a belly belt or even a jacket. The most interesting part is that it can be paired with any colour of accessories, whether gold or silver. For the runway, the stylist opted for minimalistic accessorising with the silver cluster earring and black ankle strap heel. Styles like this are best suited with the barest minimum because it is in their simplicity that they shine bright.
The 2024 Enenu collection is a repository of rich colours, deep heritage and avant-garde fabrics.

Each piece beautifully weaves a story about the traditions of the African people while retaining its modernity. Cletus Opara has constantly shown his expertise in expressing his vast fashion knowledge through his creations. His brand, Chic City, is poised to attain more expansive heights if he accelerates the pace of his performance.

Fashion is not just in the clothing but the thoughts behind it. For this collection, the messages behind it are evident. The Ankara fabric will always be celebrated for its traditional significance in the African fashion industry.