By Yemisi Suleiman

The Grass Collection was curated by Ayomide Adeyemo, Creative Director of 54Folks and was designed to ensure that every piece was made to uphold the originality of the African culture.

The options the collection showcased was coined out of the cultural heritage of the people of the Republic of South Africa.

54Folks is more than just a brand name as it centers its scope to a story telling brand that explores the history and culture of the 54 Countries in Africa. 

Ayomide Adeyemo, The Creative Director of the brand points out that, “54Folks was birthed to pursue my dreams of promoting African culture and creating forgotten histories through fashion. I made this collection to preserve cultural heritage which will provide a sense of identity and continuity in a fast changing world.”

The goal of the collection was to preserve the fascinating heritage which centers on the significance of dried grass in the historical indigenous craftsmanship of the Zulu tribe in South Africa.

An in depth look into the direction of the angles of this collection saw the brand focused on the three most famous, historical craftsmanship skills of the tribe which is weaving baskets, weaving mats and building their traditional huts with dried grass.

I believe Fashion can be a way to identify with cultural groups and show pride in one’s identity, Adeyemo states.

She adds that, “The brand remains committed to exploring the history of the 54 countries in Africa and by doing this, history is preserved and culture is upheld.”

Navigating the three offerings of the collection explores the themes, designs and inspirations which helps to define each of the creations.

Each style was curated carefully to showcase a blend of craftsmanship, significance of culture and exceptional creativity as it tells a story approach ensuring the collection remains authentic and inline with the Zulu identity. 

Zulu Dried Grass Mat 

The first got it’s inspiration from the Zulu dried grass mat hand made using 100% natural grass by the Zulu women which is naturally harvested Ncema grass (grows in wetlands of northern kwazulu-natal,South Africa) and are traditionally used as sleeping mats.

The grass mats are also sold to gain income that sustain livelihood of numerous Zulu household. Another cultural importance of the mat is that they also served as customary gifts which the bride gives to the groom’s family in a traditional Zulu wedding.

Although they are traditionally used as sleeping mats it bore an Interesting side to its inclusion in this collection asides from its numerous use among the Zulu people.

Using Ncema mat, Organza fabric and Crochet collar this piece was tailored as a simple collar gown with a puffed sleeve. The dried grass mat was deployed as a fringe like effect at the hem of the gown and collar giving it its distinctive look. 

ZULU WOVEN BASKET

The second’s inspiration was from ZULU WOVEN BASKET a respectable object of their culture and It is ann old tradition passed from a generation to the other. Each Zulu basket is lovingly handcrafted in northeast coastal and inland areas of kwazulu Natal in South Africa. All natural fibers, materials and dyes are used to give the basket its distinctive beauty. 

The artistic creation of this material sees the Zulu women use the ilala palm frond either boiled or dried pulling them into strips, then use natural materials such as mud, flowers, charcoal, or roots to dye them before drying.Coton and Crepe Fabric later come into play in the creation of this apparel. 

ZULU BEEHIVE TRADITIONAL HUT

For third concept inspiration was from the ZULU BEEHIVE TRADITIONAL HUT also known as Indus: the architectural style of the hut distinguishes as it is composed of sapling poles bent inwards and roped together in a circle. 

With it’s construction made with a grass covered frame often built from palm trees, bamboo, or wood, feature thatched roofs made of dried grass, reeds, sticks, or cornstalks the consciousness of the apparel was centered on creating something distinctive. 

The structural feature of the hut was to portray the beehive architectural style of the hut, firm, bent inwardly and roped together in a circle. What was used is an 100% natural material palm frond to create a cage like peplum style at the waist and knee length on a simple strapless bustier gown. 

On a final note the incorporation of white and ecru tones to complement the dried grass ensures the design has optimal heat balance, allowing the body to regulate its temperature efficiently regardless of external conditions.

The reflective properties of white help deflect excess heat, while the neutral warmth of ecru harmonizes with natural elements, creating a breathable and adaptive environment that enhances comfort and functionality.